Peaks & Plateaus
Three days. One hundred and seventy miles. One hell of a good time.
Make it so.
I’ve been wanting to do a multi day bikepacking trip for a long time now. Haley and I did an overnighter on our gravel bikes last year & since then I’ve been wanting to sink my teeth further into this niche sport I’ve become completely mesmerized with. Sometime in the middle of ski season we decided to put something on the calendar for the spring. Otherwise things just don’t happen. Before we knew it the snow was starting to melt and myself, Haley, Taylor, Nick, and Michael all committed to the trip. In the wise words of Carl Weathers on Arrested Development “We got a stew goin’!” Originally we were planning on doing the Kokopelli trail (shakes fist) but we were thwarted by a relentless snowpack in the La Sal’s. We pivoted and decided to do the Peaks & Plateaus route found on Bikepacking.com
Dig into maps. Figure out beta. Make a plan. Buy some gear. Make a route. Have a call with everyone. Tweak plan. Get some more gear. Pack all your shit. Wonder what you’re forgetting. OMG it’s time!
Roll. Out.
Day 1:
We all headed to Moab on Thursday for a Friday AM departure. We decided to start in Moab to make logistics a bit easier. This would also allow us to tackle the more difficult terrain with fresh legs. A mega bonus is that we could leave town with our bellies and frame bags full of Giliberto's. The best. Period. I’m certainly glad we opted for the Moab departure. Day one was a hefty undertaking. Especially with loaded bikes.
We began by heading south along the Colorado River on Kane Creek Road (above). This eventually lead us to Hurrah Pass. We had read a bunch of intel that this was a highly trafficked road, and despite having been on it before, I was blown away by how many motos, side by sides, trucks, etc there were. Definitely glad I brought my buff for this section! Things were fairly busy all the way to the top of Hurrah Pass. After taking in the view for a minute we descended down the other side of Hurrah and made our way to the Chicken Corners / Lockhart Basin intersection where we hung a left and made our way into Lockhart Basin. This is when things started to get a bit more spicy. Between that intersection and Indian Creek the trail had it all. Chunky. Loose. Sandy. Steep. Fast. Slow. Easy. Hard. You name it, we had it thrown in our faces. I honestly really enjoy this type of chunky 2-track/Jeep road riding. This was the first time I’ve done 35 straight miles of it on a loaded bike and it was a riot. About a third of the way through this section we paused for a burrito and a few minutes off the bike. Everyone refilled their waters and took a nice break. We decided we needed to make a big push if we were going to get to camp at a reasonable hour. We got back to work and started covering some ground. It was a grind from lunch to Indian Creek. Ups & downs. Highs & lows. I generally felt really good for the entire day. I had a few dark moments, but for the most part my body was holding up really well, which was nice. Thankful to have spent some time on the trainer over the winter. I think a big takeaway for me on this trip was that I need real food. Riding on those burritos really gave me a long lasting energy that I have yet to be able to achieve on snacks and gels. Good to know.
Water. A hot commodity in the desert. Especially when pushing your body & pedaling a loaded bike. I had originally planned to leave early on Friday and cache water at our first camp. 15 liters of water to be exact. Well, I didn’t exactly leave early… I arrived in Moab at about 9:30PM. With the roundtrip drive out to Hamburger Rock, it would have been roughly two and a half more hours to cache water. This would have put me back to our AirBnB sometime around midnight and I still needed to prep the bike. Given all of the beta that we had gotten, it seemed a VERY safe bet that Indian Creek would be running in the spring and we’d have a ton of water to filter. We all agreed to risk it and not cache water. We arrived at the top of Indian Creek to find a completely dried out river bed. Luckily, this location also marked the beginning of a lot of dispersed camping. There were a ton of campers, trailers, vans, and people out there enjoying the desert and we had no choice but to see if we could scrounge some water off them. Every single person we asked gave us water. One of the groups that was camping near the dry riverbed said he’d been coming to this exact location off & on for decades and had never seen it dry. Excellent. After we scraped up some water we pedaled to a camp spot and posted up for the night. Everyone was exhausted from the day. We made a quick freeze-dried meal and climbed into our sleeping bags for a well deserved rest.
Day 1 stats: 59.4mi / 4,786ft / 10hrs 32mins
The Show Must Go On.
Day 2:
We woke up on day 2 to an absolutely beautiful sunny morning. Since we had a long day in front of us & still didn’t have much water, we decided to skip making the freeze-dried meals and had some snacks instead. We then made some coffee and packed up camp. Haley had a stroke of genius and decided that if anyone looked like they were leaving, she’d ask if they could spare any water. BOOM. The first car driving by was a couple of fellow bikepackers and they had two gallon jugs of water for us. We filled our bladders and bottles and started the day in high spirits. We ride! Shortly down the road were the pit toilets for the Hamburger Rock campground. Upon using said facilities we found a flyer on the door that said the Access Fund was giving out free coffee and snacks a little ways down the road. Wahoo! We popped out of Hamburger Rock, onto pavement, and enjoyed some smooth asphalt for the first time in what felt like forever. This was when I realized I had about 10 watts in my legs. Stomach felt good, legs felt good, head was in a good place, spirits were high, just couldn’t put any power through the cranks. The group left me a couple of times. Even in the back I just couldn’t hang on and got spit out. Such a strange and deflating feeling. I started hammering snacks and water, took a salt pill, and hoped that would pay dividends. We arrived at the Access Fund tent and enjoyed some delicious coffee and some Gu Waffles. Forever thankful for those folks being there. After our java oasis we carried on pedaling down the highway. Eventually we started following Indian Creek and things got pretty lush. Riding through an incredibly beautiful river valley was a treat after being in the blazing sun earlier. We came upon Newspaper Rock which had some really neat petroglyphs. Definitely worth the stop as it’s about 10’ from the road. Michael actually pulled into the parking lot, thought he had to hike to them, and immediately exited and returned to riding. Don’t be like Michael. Check ‘em out. At this point I was finally able to put some power to the ground. Just in time for this grind out of the valley. Whew.
The big item on the docket for the day was making it to the La Sal General Store before they closed. Unfortunately, during our research we couldn’t find reliable business hours so we were flying kind of blind. One resource I found said they closed as early as 5PM, which seems kind of insane for the only store in town. Haley and I were riding together when she expressed her desire to push through and make no alterations to the route for getting to the store earlier. The reality is that she has the legs for it, and would likely beat us to the store even if we cut some miles out of the day. Off she goes. The rest of us did a group huddle and decided we’d likely cut out about 10mi of gravel roads in favor of taking a more direct and paved route to La Sal. Eventually we got a sliver of service and were able to call the store. They close at 10PM! Or maybe it’s 9PM. They weren’t really sure. Turns out they share of a phone with the store in Nucla, CO and I was talking to the dude in Nucla. He assured me that they didn’t close before 8PM at the very earliest. Okay, that helps. Kinda. We still had a long ways to pedal and you never know what the terrain is like. We pushed on and eventually came to our dirt road turnoff. Honestly this section was one of the nicest of the whole route - a little sandy but mostly smooth and fast with some beautiful views of the La Sals in the distance. We eventually came to some barbed wire rancher fences we had to open and close behind us. They acted as a tumbleweed catch and Nick quickly learned how prickly those damn things are. Ouch! We eventually made our way across Hwy 191 and began our paved pilgrimage to La Sal. Nick & Michael stopped for lunch shortly after crossing the highway and so we regrouped. Nick was looking at topo lines on his phone and piped up “I don’t want to be too optimistic, but it looks like it’s a pretty big net negative all the way into La Sal with a small climb into town.” Great. Taylor and I didn’t have much for lunch outside of our regular ride snacks so we decided we’d just push on and see them at the store. We descended for a little bit and then came around a corner to a block headwind and a climb. At this point I thought to myself “I bet Nick was reading that backwards. We must climb up to La Sal.” And climb we did. Never super steep, but never relenting. Up and up and up into a seriously strong headwind. To pass the miles Taylor and I were hollerin’ at all the cows grazing on the side of the road and talking about what we were going to get at the store. I was really dead set on an ice cream Snickers. After what felt like 100 years, we could see town. The final push! After a number of hours without radio communication I tried Haley when we got to the top of the hill. We had contact! So good to hear her voice and know she was in good spirits. We descended into town (this was the climb Nick read backwards...) and finally arrived at our first and only resupply on the whole route.
Nick enjoying the morning sunshine & snacks
Michael showing off his matching PJs
Tumbleweed mayhem
Roll top top tube bag (RTTTB) for the win
Coffe oasis / dirtbag gear explosion
Crew
Great views and smooth sailing with the La Sals in the distance
The General Store
As expected, we arrived like a pack of ravenous wolves. Haley beat us to the store by a few minutes and I found her eating and drinking the most random shit. Sour Cream & Onion Ruffles. Orange soda. A giant bagged sour pickle. Vitamin Water. I couldn’t help but laugh as I don't think I’d ever seen her consume a single one of those items before. I walked into the store and immediately started searching for my prized ice cream Snickers. After that was secured, I started looking around. Coke. Couple seltzers. Bag of Cool Ranch Doritos. Lunchables. That’s a good start. I told the cashier I’d be back for another lap around the store after I was done with this. Everyone proceeded to do the same. We all sat outside eating and drinking our fill. We chatted about our day and what we wanted to do for camp that evening. Occasionally one of us would get up and make another pass through the store before returning with more snacks and drinks. Once we were satiated, we topped off every water vessel we had and rode the 10 or so miles to camp. What a treat compared to the previous evening. We arrived in the daylight and found a wonderful spot to hunker down for the evening. We got camp all set up and sat around eating more and talking about what the next day had in store for us.
Day 2 stats: 65mi / 3,920ft / 9hrs 56mins
“No. Sleep. Till Milt’s!”
-Taylor
Day 3. The final push to Moab. We packed up camp in high spirits with the bulk of the work behind us and a lot of downhill in our future, with one caveat. Steel Bender. This is a proper Moab 4x4 trail and we heard it includes a pretty heady hike-a-bike. We weren’t going to let that get us down. We’d come so far. Milt’s was at the finish line. LFG. The day started with a ton of rolling climbs and descents. A nice change from yesterdays thousand mile uphill headwind grind. After bobbin’ and weavin’ our way along the base of the La Sals we ended up on top of a plateau with a biiiiiiiiig downhill towards Moab. This lead us to Ken’s Lake and the start of Steel Bender. We used the facilities, dumped our trash, had a snack, and began the grind. A steep climb out of Ken’s Lake eventually let up and we chugged along some sand and rock until hitting a healthy water crossing. Nick decided he was just going to go for it. Shoes and all. He plunged in with his saddle over his shoulder cyclocross style. Upon reaching the far bank he immediately regretted his decision to keep his shoes on. The rest of us, wondering if he’d had some momentary lapse in cognizance, started taking our shoes off as it was the obvious choice. We weren’t that close to Moab. We all shuttled across the river and put our shoes back on. At this point Steel Bender began in earnest. Honestly, I thought this trail was an absolute riot. Proper loaded mountain biking. Drops, sand, rock slabs, big climbs, super sharp kickers, fast descents, more sand, baby heads, you name it. Eventually we got to a high point and thought we must have done it. WRONG. More drops, baby heads, sand, and punchy climbs awaited us. It was honestly relentless in the best way possible. I was surprised how much of the trail I was able to clean. At one point there was a legit 5’ wall with some massive boulders to the right which we had to navigate. Nick and I scrambled up it and waited at the top to regroup. Michael was last to make it over the hurdle where he exclaimed “I wasn’t expecting a bouldering problem in the middle of our bikepacking trip, but here we are.” We all got a good laugh out of that because it was honestly true. There were scrapes all over these rocks from the skid plates of Jeeps & side by sides attempting to climb the thing. We pressed on. Eventually we did have a pretty massive sustained descent and we could nearly taste the greasy spoon that is Milt’s. The trail started to mellow out and we had a bunch of ridable creek crossings that proved to feel quite refreshing. One final short punchy climb out of the river bed and we were there! Pavement! We jumped onto the road and flew out of there like some kids being let out for recess. Hooray! After weaving through some neighborhoods we made it to the cars. Earlier in the day I had told everyone that I wanted to take a picture of them standing by their bike before we cleaned up and took all our gear off. Everyone obliged. Every other photo on the trip was completely candid save for these 5 shots. Thanks for taking mine, Haley!
Day 3 stats: 30.3mi / 2,545ft / 5hrs 19mins
Final Thoughts.
All in all this was a wonderful adventure. One none of us will soon forget. The first proper bikepacking trip for most of the group and we were so fortunate to share it. None of us had any big mechanicals. No tire issues. No real body issues. For the most part it was smooth sailing save for the few grim low points we all experience on a ride like this. It can’t all be sunshine and rainbows. That’s what makes it fun. As Nick always says ‘It wouldn’t be hard if it wasn’t hard’. You’re not wrong, buddy.
All of these photos were taken on a Canon EOS R8 (which I received about 3hrs before leaving town. Thanks for the incredible shipping as always, B&H) with a RF 50mm f/1.8. Shot in RAW and edited in Lightroom. I used to shoot all of my adventure photos on a Canon M50, however, that camera took an unfortunate spill recently and had to be replaced. Since I’d been shooting more pictures with that than my big camera, I decided it was time for an upgrade. I am blown away by the R8’s performance. Absolutely tiny form factor and insanely light for a full frame camera. It fits perfectly in my stem bag and didn’t skip a beat for the whole trip. 10/10.
A huge thank you to the crew at Bikepacking.com for not only this route, but inspiring so many to simply get out and ride your damn bike. Bravo.
As far as the route itself goes, Day one and day three were by far my favorite. Day two felt like a bit of a ‘transfer stage’ but that’s the only way you can link these two together. Eventually I’ll pour over some maps and figure out how to do the Kane / Lockhart / Indian Creek section as a big day loop. That would be an absolute riot on a lighter setup. I’d also like to state that we did change the route from Bikepacking.com. They had you starting at the very south end of the loop, which would put Moab at the halfway point. This would definitely split up (our) day two and would maybe change my opinion. Due to logistics and timing I’m not mad we opted for the Moab start. I don’t think there’s really a ‘wrong’ way to ride this route. We even came across a group of people riding it the opposite direction. Dealers’ choice!
I’d also like to give a huge shout out to Adam @ San Util Designs. He hustled to get both Nick and myself some custom bags before we departed for this trip. I used a hip pack (Whirlpool), handlebar bag (Roly Poly), and two of his Mini Panniers attached to my Old Man Mountain Elkhorn rack. While I loved every bag from him, my biggest take away is that I absolutely prefer a rack + panniers over the saddle bag. The weight is low, things aren’t swinging around, you can pack it better, you can access things better, and not thinking twice about slamming your dropper post is huge. 5 gold stars.
Another shout out to the crew at Rocky Talkies for keeping us in contact for this ride. It seems a bit silly to carry radios when we’re typically riding within eyesight of each other, however, I was thankful for the communication. Especially when we were heading into La Sal. Haley and I were using their new 5w radios and the reception was honestly pretty incredible.
If you have any questions about this route or any gear choices, please don’t hesitate to reach out. I’m more than happy to help in any way I can.
On to the next and thanks for following along!
P.S. We were all on short travel hardtails and Nick on a short travel full squish. Michael rode this on an OPEN WI.DE with fairly big 650b tires and a 40mm RockShox Rudy. He was really beat up after this and had to walk a lot more for obvious reasons. This route will fatigue you no matter the rider. Strongly recommend a hardtail or full squish with ample frame clearance for this route.